Hiking to Trolltunga: A Journey to Norway’s Most Dramatic Rock
Some hikes test your body. Others test your patience. And then there are hikes like Trolltunga where every step feels like you’re walking deeper into another world, one carved by glaciers, waterfalls, and cliffs that defy imagination.
Hiking to Trolltunga Norway: A Journey to Norway’s Most Dramatic Rock
The Early Start
The alarm rang at 5:00 a.m. in Odda, and the sky outside was only just turning pale. I forced myself out of bed, knowing this would be no ordinary day. Trolltunga is a 27-kilometre round trip, with nearly 10–12 hours of hiking ahead. The name itself — the Troll’s Tongue — hinted at something both magical and demanding.
Driving to the trailhead, I watched the mist hanging low in the valley, curling over the lakes like steam. At the Skjeggedal parking lot, the air was cool, damp, and filled with the quiet shuffle of other hikers tightening their boots and adjusting backpacks. We were all strangers, but we shared that mix of nerves and excitement that only comes before a big climb.
Lake ringdalsvatnet
The Climb Begins
The trail wasted no time. Right from the start, the path tilted upward, steep and relentless. The first kilometer was a grind — stone steps, tree roots, mud still wet from last night’s rain. My legs burned quickly, but I told myself the rhythm would come. Behind me, the valley shrank, the lake becoming a mirror far below.
After the first major ascent, the land opened up into a plateau. A cool breeze carried the smell of moss and wet rock. Here, small streams cut through the grass, and wooden planks bridged the boggy patches. Every so often, I’d turn around — not just to catch my breath, but to take in how far the landscape stretched.
on the way to trolltunga
Waterfalls, Rivers, and Endless Stone
Hours passed in a rhythm: climb, pause, sip of water, onward. The trail wound past roaring waterfalls that seemed to fall straight out of the clouds. Rivers spilled over rocks, white with speed, and every sound echoed in the stillness.
By the halfway point, the world felt enormous. The surrounding mountains rose like giants, their tops dusted with snow even in summer. The Lysefjord below seemed impossibly far away, yet still pulling me forward with the promise of that famous ledge.
The Final Stretch
Somewhere in the ninth or tenth kilometre, fatigue set in. The backpack felt heavier, my steps slower, and each uphill stretch seemed endless. But then the air changed — colder, sharper. The path grew narrower, and the cliffs steeper. I could feel I was close.
When I finally rounded the bend and saw Trolltunga for the first time, it stopped me in my tracks. A thin tongue of rock jutted out over a 700-meter drop, hanging above the shimmering lake of Ringedalsvatnet. Photos don’t prepare you. The scale is overwhelming.
On the Edge of the World
Waiting my turn to step out onto the rock, I felt my heartbeat quicken. People posed, some daringly close to the edge, others lying flat for the iconic photo. And then it was me walking slowly, the wind tugging at my jacket, the drop yawning on either side.
Standing there, I felt both small and infinite. The silence was broken only by wind and distant water, yet the moment was deafening in its intensity. I sat for a while, legs dangling into nothing, and let the immensity of Norway sink in.
The Long Walk Back
The descent tested me even more than the climb. My knees complained with every step, and the trail seemed to stretch forever. But with each hour, the sun dipped lower, painting the mountains in gold and the lakes in silver. When I finally returned to Skjeggedal, exhausted, muddy, and aching, I couldn’t stop smiling.
Why Trolltunga is Worth It
Trolltunga is not just a usual hike. A test of endurance is rewarded with one of the most breathtaking viewpoints on Earth. The journey is long and demanding, but it gives back more than it takes.
For anyone willing to put in the steps, Trolltunga offers something unforgettable, the feeling of standing on the edge of the world, with the whole of Norway stretching out beneath your feet.
